Unlike collars that put all the stress on a dog's throat, harnesses wrap securely around the chest and shoulders. This design is much better on the neck, making it a perfect choice for puppies and dogs. It's also a game-changer for pets with thick necks or those whose heads are narrower than their collars, ensuring they stay tucked in safely during every walk.
Even if your dog doesn’t fit into one of these categories, there are several reasons to consider purchasing a dog harness. But with so many options available, you might wonder how to choose the best dog harness. Read on to learn more about the different types of dog harnesses, how to properly fit a harness, and tips for keeping them clean.
Which Dogs Should Wear a Harness?
When you break down how a dog harness works, it all comes down to secure, gentle support, says Dr. Amy Attas, VMD, from New York’s City Pets veterinary practice. “A harness fastens to your dog with multiple contact points, which spreads out pressure evenly across their chest and shoulders, instead of focusing it all on their neck.” She’s a big proponent of harnesses for breeds like Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, and Pugs specifically—since these dogs have necks almost as wide as their heads, they can wriggle out of a regular collar in seconds.
She also swears by harnesses for older dogs, and any pup dealing with neck soreness, breathing issues, or heart conditions. Even for young puppies, harnesses are a great pick—you just have to adjust the fit as they grow, or grab a bigger size when they outgrow their current one. Plus, if your dog is a chronic leash-puller, a harness is a game-changer: it stops them from straining or hurting their neck when they yank hard on the lead, something that’s all too common with a basic collar.
How to Properly Fit a Harness
It’s important to choose a harness that fits properly so there’s no chance of the dog wiggling out of it, Dr. Attas says. If possible, she suggests bringing your dog to the pet store so they can try on the harness. A knowledgeable sales associate can also help you adjust the harness to make sure it fits securely.
If visiting the store isn’t an option, there are two key measurements you need to take. The first is the area at the base of the neck where it meets the shoulders. The second is the widest part of the chest, which is usually behind the front legs, she explains. You can take your dog’s measurements with a cloth measuring tape. You can also use a piece of string and place it against a ruler or tape measure to determine the length in inches or centimeters.
Most quality dog harnesses are designed with multiple closure points, a feature that boosts overall security while also letting you fine-tune the fit to suit your dog’s unique build as needed. Dr. Attas suggests fitting the harness to your dog’s approximate estimated size first, and it’s always better to start with a looser fit than one that’s overly restrictive. “Once the harness is securely on your dog, you can gradually tighten the straps until it fits snugly against their body—without being so tight that it digs in or restricts their movement,” she explains.
You’ve likely heard the common rule of thumb for fitting collars and harnesses: you should be able to fit two fingers comfortably between the gear and your dog’s body. “In my experience, that can leave the fit just a little too loose for reliable security,” Dr. Attas points out. “The ideal fit is one where you can just barely squeeze two fingers underneath the straps, without the harness being so tight that it causes your dog discomfort.” For dogs with long, thick, or fluffy coats, you may need to tighten the straps a touch more than you would for a short-haired dog, to prevent them from wiggling free of the harness.
With that core fit guidance in mind, here are additional key tips to keep your dog safe and comfortable while wearing a harness:
- Try walking your dog around to make sure their legs can move freely, and the harness isn’t restricting their movement
- Pull at the harness in different directions to make sure your dog can’t slip out of it
- Keep an eye on areas where the harness may cause rubbing or chafing
- When your dog moves forward, try going backward and see if the harness has room to go over your dog’s head. If so, that means your dog can slip out by going in the opposite direction, and you’ll need to tighten the harness
- Check the fit of the harness when your dog comes back from the groomer or if they’ve had any weight loss or gain
Types of Dog Harnesses
Harnesses come in various styles, materials, and closure types, each with advantages and disadvantages. Below we get into these features to help you decide on the best dog harness.
✨ Comfort-First Harnesses: Breakdown by Material
The material of a harness makes or breaks how comfy it is for your pup, and how well it holds up over time. Here’s the full lowdown on the most common options you’ll see:
- Nylon harnesses are the go-to budget pick, and for good reason: they’re super durable, crazy lightweight, and a breeze to wipe clean. But there’s a big catch: nylon isn’t breathable at all. It traps heat, sweat, and water right against your dog’s skin, so it’s not the best for sweltering summer days or pups who love to swim and splash around.
- Genuine leather harnesses are the timeless, fancy option. They look so sleek, get softer with every use, and can last for years if you care for them properly. The downsides? They’re definitely an investment, and you have to keep up with regular conditioning to stop the leather from drying out, cracking, or getting stiff over time.
- Mesh harnesses were made for summer walks! They’re ultra-breathable, feather-light, and let air flow through to keep your pup cool when it’s boiling outside. But they’re not the most heavy-duty: they wear out way faster than nylon or leather, and most have barely any padding. That means if your pup pulls a lot, it can rub or chafe their skin pretty easily with regular use.
- Neoprene harnesses are non-negotiable for water babies! If your dog lives for beach trips, lake swims, or splashing in puddles, this material holds up perfectly to water. It’s padded for extra squishy comfort, and you can even soak it in cool water to help your pup beat the heat on hot days. The only downside? It’s not breathable, so if you don’t let it dry fully after use, it can trap moisture and heat against their skin.
🔦 High-Visibility Reflective Harnesses
If you walk your pup early in the morning, after dark, or even just in dim, overcast weather, a reflective harness is such an important safety pick. A lot of harnesses come with built-in reflective stitching or fabric that lights up in low light, so drivers, cyclists, and other walkers can see your pup from way farther away.
If your current harness doesn’t have reflective bits, Dr. Attas has a genius easy hack: grab some high-visibility reflective tape, cut it into strips, and stick it right onto the harness! For even more safety, you can also grab a harness with built-in LED lights—total game-changer for nighttime walks in busy neighborhoods.
📌 Front-Clip, Back-Clip, and Dual-Clip Harnesses
Did you know where the leash clips on your harness makes a huge difference in how your walks go? Dr. Attas breaks down the pros and cons of each style:
Front-clip harnesses are magic for pups that pull like a sled dog. The clip sits right on their chest, so when they lunge forward, the harness gently redirects them back toward you, instead of letting them pull full force ahead. The only annoying thing? Once the harness is on, the clip is under their chest, so it can be a little tricky to clip the leash on without bending down or fumbling around.
For well-trained pups that walk nicely on a loose leash, Dr. Attas swears by back-clip harnesses. The clip sits right between their shoulder blades, and the best part is how easy it is to use—just clip the leash on and go, no fumbling required.
If you want the best of both worlds, grab a dual-clip harness! It has two clips: one on the chest, one on the back. “These are perfect for training your pup to walk politely,” Dr. Attas says. Start with the front clip for extra control while you’re training, then switch to the back clip once they’ve mastered loose-leash walking.
🚫 No-Pull Harnesses
No-pull harnesses are a specialized type of front-clip harness, made specifically for heavy pullers. Instead of a standard clip, they have a front-facing D-ring that tightens the harness just a little across the chest when your pup pulls.
“When your dog starts to lunge or yank on the leash, the D-ring creates a gentle, even squeeze across their chest that stops the pulling motion in its tracks,” Dr. Attas explains. These are especially helpful if you have a big, strong pup that’s bigger than you, if you walk while pushing a stroller, or if you have limited mobility.
👟 Over-the-Head vs. Step-In Harnesses
Harnesses also come in two main styles based on how you put them on, and one might be way better for your pup than the other!
Over-the-head harnesses are the most common: you slip them over your pup’s head, then buckle them around their torso. Step-in harnesses, on the other hand, have a figure-eight shape—you just set it on the ground, help your pup step their front paws into the two loops, then buckle it up along their back. Just like over-the-head styles, they wrap around both the neck and torso to keep your pup secure.
The big difference? You never have to put anything over your pup’s head with a step-in harness. Dr. Attas says this is a total lifesaver for pups with ear pain, neck soreness, headaches, or any dog that hates having things near or over their head. She also adds that step-in harnesses are perfect for escape artist pups—when fitted correctly, they’re way harder for your dog to back out of mid-walk.
